Is your roof leaky, covered in mold, or you’re simply looking to increase your home’s curb appeal? Then it’s time for a new roof. But roof installation is no easy task. You can do it yourself, although it’s a lot of heavy lifting, exposure to the elements, and plenty of time spent going up and down a ladder.
Before embarking on this task, break out your ladder and climb up to your roof. If you can’t walk around your roof comfortably, then it’s time to call a roofer. However, if you’ve passed this first test, continue reading. This guide covers how roof installation works, how to prepare, and when it's better to call a professional.
Before nailing down your new shingles, you’re bound to have some basic questions: How much does it cost to install a roof? How long does it take to install a roof? How do I know when to replace my roof? And can I roof a house myself?
Let’s break down each of these questions.
The average cost to install a new roof is around $9,500, with most homeowners spending between $7,500 and $16,000 for a standard asphalt shingle roof. Costs typically run $4 to $11 per square foot installed, and can climb past $30,000 for larger homes or premium materials like metal, tile, or slate.
Your final price depends mostly on three things: the material you choose, the size and complexity of your roof, and labor rates in your area. Removing the old roof, adding underlayment and flashing, and pulling permits all add to the total as well.
What are some of the factors that affect the cost of a residential roof installation?
Material. Asphalt shingles run about $4 to $7 per square foot installed, metal $8 to $16, concrete or clay tile $10 to $18, flat or membrane roofing $4 to $7, and slate $15 to $30 or more. Material alone can double or triple your total.
Roof size and complexity. Roofing is priced by the square, which equals 100 square feet of roof area, not your home's floor area. A steep pitch, multiple valleys, or several dormers adds squares and labor time beyond what your home's footprint alone suggests.
Labor and region. Labor typically makes up 40% to 60% of the total cost, and rates vary significantly by market. The same roof can cost thousands more in a high-cost coastal city than in a lower-cost region.
Removal and disposal. Tearing off and hauling away an old roof typically adds $700 to $2,000 to the project, more if there are multiple layers to remove.
Permits. Most municipalities require a permit for a full roof replacement, typically $30 to $200 depending on your location and the scope of the project.
$25,000 is well above the national average of about $8,000, and outside the typical $5,500 to $11,000 range for a standard asphalt shingle roof. That doesn't automatically mean you're overpaying, though. A price like this is common for larger homes, roughly 3,000 square feet or more, roofs with a lot of valleys, dormers, or pitch changes, or premium materials like metal, slate, or tile.
If your home and materials are on the simpler end and you're still quoted $25,000, it's worth getting a second opinion and comparing the cost per square (100 square feet) between quotes, not just the total. Accurate measurements make that comparison a lot easier, since you're working from the same roof size instead of each contractor's own estimate.
A house's square footage isn't the same as its roof's square footage, so the honest answer depends on whether that 2,000 square feet is on one level or two. A single-story, 2,000-square-foot home usually has a roof in the 23 to 26 square range (a square equals 100 square feet), once you factor in pitch and overhangs. A two-story home with the same 2,000 square feet of living space typically has a smaller footprint, closer to 12 to 15 squares, since that living space is stacked rather than spread out.
Using the national averages above, that works out to roughly $9,000 to $14,000 for a single-story home with standard asphalt shingles, and $5,500 to $9,000 for a two-story home with a smaller roof footprint. Steeper pitches, more valleys and dormers, and higher-end materials can push either range up. Since house size and roof size aren't the same number, getting your actual roof measured is a much better starting point than estimating from square footage alone.
|
Home size |
Typical roof size |
Estimated cost |
|
1,500 sq. ft. |
About 17 squares |
$7,000–$15,000 |
|
2,000 sq. ft. |
About 22–26 squares |
$10,000–$16,000 |
|
2,500+ sq. ft. or complex roofs |
28+ squares |
$14,000–$22,000+ |
Your roof's square footage is usually 10% to 30% larger than your home's footprint because of pitch and overhangs, so the most reliable way to get an accurate number is to measure the actual roof rather than estimate from your home's size.
|
Material |
Cost per sq. ft. installed |
|
Asphalt shingles |
$4–$7 |
|
Flat or membrane roofing |
$4–$7 |
|
Metal |
$8–$16 |
|
Concrete or clay tile |
$10–$18 |
|
Slate |
$15–$30+ |
A new roof is a big expense upfront, but it pays some of that back. According to Remodeling Magazine's Cost vs. Value Report, homeowners typically recoup 60% to 68% of the cost of an asphalt shingle roof when they sell their home, and a new roof can also help a house sell faster by removing a common negotiating point for buyers.
Every home is different, so every timeline will be different. With that being said, the average residence’s roof (3,000 square feet or less) can be replaced in two days—on day one, you rip up the roof, and on day two you install the new roof.
However, in extreme cases involving weather conditions and the supply of your materials, it can take five days or even three weeks. So, always be prepared and have a game plan if your residential roofing installation project begins to get long.
The $8,000 question! Just because your roof is leaking doesn’t mean you need to replace your entire roof; that could simply call for a roof repair. But the answer as to when you should replace your roof can vary. Here are three of the most common reasons to replace your roof:
Many local building codes include some version of a 25% rule: if 25% or more of your roof covering is repaired or replaced within a 12-month period, the whole roof has to be brought up to current code, sometimes meaning a full reroof rather than a patch. The exact threshold and requirements vary by city and state, and your insurer may have its own version of this rule for claims.
Before you commit to a repair or partial replacement, check with your local building department or your insurance adjuster to see whether this rule applies where you live
Technically, yes, you can. However, if done incorrectly, you can cause a lot of damage to your roof, leading to more costs down the road. And if you have a highly technical roof with steep angles, dormers, pitch changes, chimneys, or any variety of specialty issues, we’d recommend you call a professional roofing installation company.
That being said, if your roof is pretty straightforward, you're a handy person and feel comfortable at great heights, then go for it! Just be sure you’re following all the safety precautions that can be found in this guide and any of the other DIY resources.
Shingles need warmth to seal properly, so most manufacturers recommend installing between 50°F and 80°F. Below that range, the adhesive strips won't bond the way they should, and shingles can even crack when nailed in near-freezing temperatures. Above 85°F or so, shingles get soft and are easier to scuff or dent underfoot.
Wind, rain, and ice bring their own risks. Skip the install if gusts are forecast above 20 mph, since loose shingles and flashing get dangerous to handle. Wet or icy decking is riskier to walk on too, so wait for a dry stretch of at least a day before you start.
Building codes and permit requirements vary by climate zone as well. Cold-climate areas often require extra ice and water shield along the eaves, and some coastal regions have stricter wind ratings for shingles and fasteners. Check with your local building department before you buy materials, so what you install actually meets code.
Accurate roof measurements are important whether you're planning the residential roofing installation project yourself or working with a contractor. Hover creates detailed roof measurements from property photos and lets you review dimensions on an interactive 3D model.
Plus, Hover reduces your “ladder time,” so there’s less time spent going up and down a ladder taking measurements, doing math, re-doing measurements, and going to the store. You simply need to use Hover once to get a clear picture of the size of your project and the exact amount of materials needed.
Now that you know when and if you should replace your roof and the time and money that goes into it, let’s get into what you’ll need.
In addition to these key materials, you’ll also need tools to make sure you’re properly installing your roof to avoid premature failure. These are the tools we recommend:
As we’ve mentioned before, roofing is tough, and it’s essential to get it right. So we’re happy to break down the steps involved.
A little prep goes a long way toward keeping the job site safe and your yard intact.
Cover landscaping. Lay tarps over bushes, flower beds, and anything else near the house before you start tearing off shingles.
Park a dumpster close to the house. The closer it is, the less time you'll spend hauling old shingles across the yard.
Move valuables and vehicles. Shift patio furniture, grills, and cars away from the work area. Dropped tools and debris happen even on careful jobs.
Sweep for nails at the end of each day. A magnetic roofing sweep picks up stray nails from the lawn and driveway, which matters if you have kids, pets, or a lawnmower.
You can’t properly install a new roof on top of the old one. Some of the shadier contractors are known to add a new roof on top of the old, but that’s a near guarantee of premature roof failure.
The drip edge is the metal flashing that’s installed at the edges of the roof to help control the flow of water away from your fascia. When you replace an asphalt roof, you must replace your drip edge or your home will not be up to code.
Underlayment is a felt or synthetic material used over your decking to provide additional protection. It helps prevent ice or rain from seeping into your home.
In most municipalities, yes. A roof replacement typically requires a building permit, and some areas require an inspection after the underlayment goes on and before shingles cover it up, so schedule that inspection instead of working straight through.
Requirements vary by city and climate zone. Cold-climate areas often require ice and water shield as part of permit approval, and some regions have added wind-rating requirements for materials. Check with your local building department before you start. Skipping a required permit can cause problems later if you sell the house or file an insurance claim.
Valleys are where two roof slopes meet in a “V” shape and channel a lot of water. They need extra attention to prevent leaks during a residential roof installation.
There are two common approaches. An open valley leaves metal flashing visible, with shingles cut back on each side. A closed, or woven, valley overlaps shingles across the seam so no metal shows. Closed valleys look more uniform, but open valleys shed water and debris a little more reliably, especially where rain or snow is heavy.
Starter shingles are the first course of shingles along the edge of the roof. They’re narrower and help prevent water infiltration beneath the shingles.
Starter shingles should overhang the eave and rake edges by about 1/4 to 3/4 inch, so water drips clear of the fascia instead of running behind it.
Shingles are applied in an overlapping pattern and secured with a nail gun.
A few details that make shingles last
Overhang: Let the starter course hang about 1/4 to 3/4 inch past the eaves and rakes.
Nailing: Most manufacturers call for 4 nails per shingle in normal conditions, placed just above the seal strip, and up to 6 nails in high-wind zones. Check your shingle's install guide for the exact spec before you start.
Reveal: Keep the exposed part of each shingle, the reveal, consistent all the way up, usually around 5 inches.
Chalk lines: Snap a horizontal chalk line every few courses. It's a lot easier to catch a drifting row after 3 courses than after 10.
Standard asphalt shingles typically call for 4 nails per shingle, placed about 1 inch above each cutout slot and roughly an inch in from each edge. In high-wind regions, coastal areas, or on roofs steeper than 8/12, many manufacturers and local codes require 6 nails instead, spaced evenly across the nailing strip. Nail count and placement ultimately come down to the shingle brand, your roof's pitch, and local wind requirements, so confirm the exact pattern in your shingle's installation guide before you start.
Flashings are metal pieces installed around roof penetrations to prevent leaks.
Step flashing on a wall or dormer goes on one piece per shingle course, not as one long strip. Each L-shaped piece overlaps the one below it by at least 2 inches, and the shingle course above overlaps the flashing. Work from the bottom of the wall up, tucking each new piece behind the felt or siding and over the course below before starting the next one.
The ridge is the top of your residential roof and needs special shingles for protection and airflow.
The final step is ensuring your new roof is sealed and protected.
Congrats! You’ve tackled one of the biggest home improvement jobs there is. Enjoy your new roof—and the peace of mind that comes with it.
Before materials are ordered, you need to know the roof's dimensions, pitch, facets, ridges, valleys, and other details that affect quantity. Hover creates detailed roof measurements from property photos and organizes them in an interactive 3D model, giving homeowners and contractors a clearer starting point for planning the project.
So, you now know what you need and have the basic process of installing a roof. Here are some tips to make the project run smoothly.